China Road, by Rob Gifford is one of those books that I don't want to finish. I'm actually piddling around reading it, underlining, rereading sections - simply because I don't want to have to close it for the final goodbye. Gifford was the Beijing correspondent for NPR (National Public Radio) for six years. In 2005, he decided to move home to London after having been in China since 1987. As a final farewell, he decided to travel China's highway Route 312 which stretches from Shanghai, across the middle belly of the country to the border of Kazakhstan, and to broadcast reports from the route. All along the way, he was also writing this book. In the small village of Shuangzhao (pronounced Shwahng-jow), he wandered into a Protestant church. It was mostly older women, and they were waiting for the itinerant pastor to show up. When it became apparent that the pastor wasn't going to make it, several older women told Gifford that he should preach. Chinese believe that all westerners must be Christians. So they wouldn't let him off the hook, and Gifford was forced to give an off-the-cuff "sermon". He fumbled around and pulled out a scripture that was familiar to him and delivered what he believed to be a dull message. You have to read the book, even if you're not into China. It's fascinating. In the following excerpt, he's writing about the moments after his sermon, when the congregants were praying.
"There is a purity and an intensity to Christian believers in China, and it overflows in their prayers. Mention Christianity to ordinary Chinese people, and they are not burdened by visions of crusading soldiers, fornicating popes, or right-wing politicians. They have heard about this belief relatively late in the faith's long and winding history, and for them it is a matter of the heart. This is perhaps how it was supposed to be, I think to myself, as the final "Amen" rises from the congregation."
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